Thursday, 4 May 2017

Arran 5: Fairy Dell and the Cock of Arran

From Lochranza you walk up and over a hillside to Fairy Dell. There are no roads in or out of Fairy Dell. But it is positioned happily on the beach, and when I arrived there was a little rowing boat moored up, with a bench in it. It looked like a gondola. I wondered whether it was used to ferry tourists to and from Lochranza in serious style. Instead it was the prosaic explanation that they were bringing some new furniture to the hut (which had no running water or electricity).

Idyllic.

And around the rocky coast. Great big volcanic rocks. And a smuggler's cave, Ossian's cave, with carvings dated to the 17th century. And ancient trees which had hugged their rocks for centuries in a tight embrace. Up the hill. Through the ancient trees. Finding bones of dead deer that had wandered into little mossy glades to die. Seeing their descendants watching warily from a safe distance. Up the hill. Past the abandoned and ruined farmhouse of Cock. More dead deer. Up and over finally the crest of the hill and wandering back in the dusk light to Lochranza, the Lochranza distillery lit up attractively below. More deer. Lots more deer. Running through the fields with the great big fluffy sheep. A dead lamb. Skilfully eviscerated by the eagles that live on the crag of Torr Nead an Eoin, where they scan the fields below like a buffet table.